As anyone who’s recently strolled down the natural-foods aisle at the grocery store can attest, alternative milk is big business these days.

From lactose intolerance to worries about overconsumption of calcium and an increased risk of cancer, health-conscious America’s growing aversion to cow’s milk has resulted in all manner of “milks” derived from items that have nothing to do with mammals — cashew milk, flax milk, hemp milk, quinoa milk.